Flora, Fauna and Geology
Many of the geological deposits and land features of Varanger are as they were 12-15 000 years ago, when they were formed by the retreating ice. The combination of Arctic climate and sparse vegetation cover means that many rock features and land formations from the last ice-age are apparent even today. In the heart of the National Park reindeer graze on patches of luxuriant vegetation yet these grazing areas are surrounded by very spartan mountains with extensive boulder fields devoid of vegetation. On the rocky plateaus you can find circular moraine features and boulder fields that date back to the ice age. Although such primeval landscape features are relatively common to Varanger, they are unusual globally.
From the undulating plateau-areas of North Varanger there are long, lush river-valleys that lead outwards to the coast. The many V-shaped valleys were shaped from the erosive processes of retreating glacier waterways. On the north-eastern coastline there is a stunningly dramatic cliff-landscape with jagged outcrops and distorted stratified rock layers.
Since the last ice age, freeze-thaw processes and rockfalls have carved steep gulleys into the hillsides. A persistently cold climate has maintained the rock surfaces largely devoid of vegetation all the way to sea-level. During the last glaciation period, the ice was frozen hard to the ground and the landscape has been largely untouched by glacial processes. As a result, the heart of the Park appears much as it was before the last glaciation time, with its intact V-shaped valleys, plateaus of boulder fields and circular moraine formations.
Up in the far reaches of the valleys there are large belts of willow thickets that are both an attractive food basis for moose during the winter months and an important habitat for breeding birds in the summertime.
Bar-tailed godwit. Photo: Skjalg Helmer Vian
Picture 1. Plant life. Photo: Geir Østereng. Picture 2. Field fleawort. Photo: Geir Østereng
Upland heaths largely dominated by crowberry are the most common habitat type on the Varanger peninsula. Associated with the river valleys winding their way deep inland there are also meadow landscapes. Such areas are strikingly species rich compared to the barren mountain plateau areas surrounding them. Many hundreds of species may be associated with these small green oases, creating a diverse habitat for wildlife. Tufted hair grass is a tall-growing grass type that covers large swathes of the river valleys. Compared to many other species this grass is herbivore-resilient to grazing pressure and able to persist well.
5-10% of Varanger’s flowering plants are Arctic specialists. One example is the fringed sandwort which requires rather specific growing conditions of cool summer temperatures, high soil nutrient content, and low competition. Fringed pink and field locoweed (yellow oxytropis) are also typical plants of the East Finnmark region. In terms of rarities, we find in Varanger the only known records of Altaihaukeskjegg (which is otherwise native in the Atlas Mountains of Russia), whilst in a small calcium-rich area to the west of Syltefjorddalen you’ll find the Varanger poppy. The Persfjorden-Syltefjorden outer coastline is Norway’s only known habitat for the species, which grows in dry meadowlands and on dolomite-rich ridges and ledges.
At high elevations, the plateaus of the Park are predominantly stone and scree covered. Due to ground-frost activity and the region’s short growing season, little vegetation thrives in these exposed areas. However, you’ll still find bird life here in the form of rock ptarmigan, Northern wheatear, and snow bunting. At lower elevations there are nesting waders such as the charismatic European golden plover, yet also some less well-known species such as the purple sandpiper, sanderling, and Eurasian dotterel. Arctic fox and Norwegian lemming are mammals that characterise the area. You may also encounter Eurasian otter, Eurasian stoat, wolverine, Eurasian red fox, (semi-domestic) reindeer, and Eurasian moose.
Picture 1. Norwegian lemming. Photo: Rolf Anker Ims Photo 2. Horned lark. Photo: Skjalg Helmer Vlan
Picture 3. Snowy owl. Photo: Knut Sverre Horn. Picture 4. Moose cow with calf in Syltefjorddalen. Photo: Geir Østereng
Picture 1. Norwegian lemming Photo: Rolf Anker Ims . Picture 2. Arctic fox in its summer coat. Photo: Alfred Ørjebu. Picture 3. Long tailed skua in the foreground of Kjøltindan. Photo: Bjarne Riesto
Up in the far reaches of the valleys there are large belts of willow thickets that are both an attractive food basis for moose during the winter months and an important habitat for breeding birds in the summertime. Large numbers of small rodents are good news for the long-tailed skua which nest in the tussocky landscape in ‘lemming-years’ when such small mammal prey density is high. Rodent-specialists such as the rough-legged buzzard also thrive when rodent prey is numerous. Bar-tailed godwit, meadow pipit, and the easterly distributed red-throated pipit are species associated with the tundra habitat of Varanger. The region has the highest population in Norway of horned lark, whilst along the outer coastline white-tailed eagles are in their element, with particularly high numbers noticeable during the springtime. Of the two eagle species found here, the golden eagle is more likely seen inland.
In ‘lemming-years’ if you are very fortunate you may be able to enjoy the sight of a snowy owl hunting. The climate and environment here in Varanger also suit the Arctic fox. Indeed, the National Park has a nationally important Arctic fox population and there are several management measures in place to assist the species in its survival here. In the Park there are many wader species associated with the wetland and lake areas. Additionally, up to 1000 tundra geese gather annually at moult-sites on the peninsula before migrating southwards. The rare lesser white-fronted goose is also present in the Park’s wetland areas and geese of many species are frequently observed along the coast during spring and autumn.
Experience the geological landscapes, flora, and wildlife at this Arctic Frontier of mainland Norway.