Along the National Tourist Route – Vounnabahta/Varangerbotn to Hamningberg
Drive the E75 from Varangerbotn (Vounnabahta in Sami) to Hamningberg via the coastal towns of Vadsø and Vardø. In Varanger, stop at the Varanger Sami Museum 
to visit exhibits about the human history of the area over the ages. In the wind shelter (‘gapahuk’), in the grounds of the museum there is a fire pit and information placards about the National Park. You are welcome to use the fire pit to grill your own food if you will. In Unjárgga/Nesseby Municipality you will find that the Sami language is a northern Sami variant. Many of the Sami living here have work associated with the region’s semi-domestic reindeer.
Follow the fjord outwards on the Varanger National Tourist Road .
It’s recommended to stop at the Ceavccageaðge/Mortensnes cultural heritage site to explore some of the richest and most unusual human cultural remains in Scandinavia. Follow a marked trail which reveals at various interpretative points the many stages of human settlement over time at this site. You’ll see a wide variety of different cultural remains here.
Enjoy the open seascape as you drive the north shore of the Varanger fjord towards Vadsø, and the sight of gulls over the sea, searching for fish prey such as small pollock. The waves of the fjord are often disturbed by a porpoise swimming or small whales surfacing. You’ll often sight white tailed eagles as you drive.
Before you get to Vadsø you will drive through Vestre-Jakobselv, which has the distinction of being one of Norway’s ten best salmon rivers. Here, there are camp sites, other overnight accommodation alternatives, and the possibility to buy a meal.
The National Tourist Route snakes its way through the landscape. Photo: Bjarne Riesto
King eider ducks at speed! Photo: Randulf Valle
you can explore the history of the Kvensk people. Through displays and exhibits find out about these Finnish immigrants to the Finnmark and Northern Troms regions and their cultural significance in the Northeast region. Visit the bird hide down in town at the harbourside where you can smell the maritime scents of fjord and fish. TIt is recommended to take the drive up the car park and access point to Nattfjelldalen, also known as Idjaavzi/Koppakuru. If you have time, a daytrip from here will take you into the National Park and an unforgettable and spectacular valley (5km to the park and 9 km to the waterfall).
Visit Ekkerøy peninsula and wade in the beaches’ shallows in ice cold water on golden sands. Or pay the noisy and vibrant kittiwake cliffs a visit. Towards the far point of Ekkerøy you may see minke whales and fin whales searching for food, also rafts of eider ducks on the sea. On the tour onwards towards Vardø the fjord opens out and on a clear day you can see all the way to Grense Jakobselv, the border to Russia, and Russia beyond. In Skallelv village you can see the National Park stretching out on the left side and you enter a distinctly different climatic zone. You are now entering the Low Arctic of the Norwegian mainland. In Skallelv you can fish for young salmon, enjoy the birdlife that often gathers upstream of the bridge, or if you are lucky watch lazy seals as they recline on large boulders at the Skallelv river’s mouth.
In Komagvær village you cross the Komagelva river, which is one of the Varanger peninsula’s many rivers for small salmon. Here you will find a camping site and some amenities. If you want to take a trip in the National Park, take off to the left at the turn off before you reach the camping site and then drive 7 km up a dusty gravel track. At the end of the gravel track there is a car park and starting point to enjoy Komagdalen valley, or Stuorrajohka/Komagdaali, as is also called From here there is a 4 km long bird trail with interpretative signs and information about birds along the way.
Travelling eastwards, at Kiberg it’s worth a stop at the Partisan Museum and to visit the Kiberg/Bierge National Park Information Point. At the exhibit here you can find out about the unique wildlife of the area. Down at the shore there is a wind shelter (‘gapahauk’) where you will likely see purple sandpipers and gulls. From Kiberg you can take a stroll up to the East Cape. On route you will see signs of the German camp and locations in the mountain that are World War II-related.
Drive further over Domen, the ‘Witches’ Mountain’. According to rumour, during trials of condemned ‘witches’ it was here that the devil had his stronghold and his gateway to hell. If you dare to take a pause, there is a wind shelter with a sweeping panoramic view that includes the Fiskerhalvøya peninsular and Russia.
Vardø is a town of great diversity with street art, an active fishing fleet and the bird island of Hornøya a mere stone’s throw away from the quayside, by boat. In town you can visit the Steilneset Witches’ Memorial , a sobering venue to explore. Here, you will learn about witchcraft trials that took place in Vardø and about the victims of these trials. Or visit the Pomor Museum to find out about how the important international Pomor trade took place between local inhabitants to Varanger and those of the White Sea region, in Russia. Visit the world’s most northerly, and Norway’s most easterly fortress, the Vardøhus.
The road to the world’s end – Hamningberg
Continuing from Svartnes towards Hamningberg much of the roadside landscape is protected as either Nature Reserve or Landscape Protected Area. After Persfjorden you will drive past large sandy beaches in between rugged troll-like rock formations on the edge of the Barents Sea coast. There are green grassy valleys and contrasting rocky shores along route also. You can see signs of how the sea level has changed over time. Impressive gullies formed by erosion along the hillsides characterise this area.
Hamningberg village is a picturesque yet abandoned fishing outpost. Take a hike in Ytre Syltevika Nature Reserve and walk amongst impressive driftwood timber strewn along the shores of the Barents Sea. It’s a shoreline bare of vegetation and highly influenced by the cool Low Arctic climate. Such shores are not typical of mainland Europe and resemble instead those found on Svalbard.
See a film excerpt of Persfjorden – Syltefjorden Landscape Protected Area that the National Tourist Route winds its way through.
A glimpse of Persfjorden. Photo: Bjarne Riesto
A young hunter learning to harvest nature’s surplus. Photo: Geir Østereng
Fish
The Varanger peninsula has few lakes, and is most well-known for its many good rivers for small salmon and Arctic char. The rivers of Syltefjordelva, Sandfjordelva, Komagelva, Skallelv, Vestre -Jakobselva and Bergebyelva are worth a fishing visit. This is to prevent the spread of any fish parasites. Also remember if you are visitor here, you will need a fishing permit. Salmon rivers have their own fishingpermits. You can buy fishingcards for fishing in the lakes on Finnmark. Permits can be purchased at the website www.fefo.no.
Fishing at Lake Ordo requires the purchase of a special fishing permit. You can apply for an Ordo Lake permit here.
Those living permanently in Finnmark can fish for free in the lakes here.
Hunting
The peninsula supports willow grouse and ptarmigan, yet in variable numbers. One special reason for variation in their distributions in Varanger is due to the quality of their habitat in different areas. The birch forest are in some areas dramatically transformed through moth larvae invasions which cause widespread tree death also affecting the understory vegetation. Some areas show signs of regrowth of new forest after moth outbreaks, yet it is a slow process. Willow ptarmigan can be particularly sensitive to forest damage for several successive years. Hunting and permission for a licence to hunt is regulated through the Finnmark Estate.
Self-service open huts – simple shelters offering accommodation for travellers
The telegraph line hut network
There are a series of huts in almost linear formation that cross over Varanger peninsula that are a product of both World War II and previous eras. Their original purpose was as shelters relating to the telegraph cable network that connected Kongsfjord all the way to Kvalnes in Komagvær. Initially, stable facilities for transport horses were built every 14 km. Subsequently, additional huts were constructed every 7 km between these stables. Today, the telegraph cables that might have guided you a safe passage over the peninsula are no longer to be found. It’s essential to have a map and a GPS to be able to navigate safely if you become disorientated if mist impedes visibility. The weather can change fast in Varanger, so it is very important to always take navigation equipment with you on your hikes. There remain some huts with basic facilities that are available for short-term use in the National Park and surrounding area. Some huts are open and free to use, one need booking and payment in advance. Information on their locations can be found at this link to the National Park’s brochure.
Bjørnehytta – open
The National Park maintain this small open hut in partnership with the Komagvær Hunting and Fishing Association. The hut is 18 km from the Komagdalen National Park entry point end car park. In summertime, this car park is also 7 km in distance from the main road itself, accessible via a gravel track. In the wintertime, the road to the end car park is closed, and you will have to make the whole 25 km journey to the hut starting from the main road itself. The hut is in good condition with 4 beds, 2 hammocks, a wood oven with firewood, and propane cooking plate. The drop-toilet outside is a toilet with a spectacular view! In the area here, there was dramatic partisan activity under World War II.
Ragnarokk – open
The National Park maintain this small open hut in partnership with the owner Båtsfjord emergency services. Here you will find 4 beds, 2 hammocks, and a wood oven with firewood. There is an outdoor drop-toilet. This is the hut that will give you best access to Skipskjølen mountain. It is said that the telegraph-line workers called the area ‘the Devil’s dance floor’ because the permafrost in the ground caused the telegraph poles to shift their position over time.
Ragnarokk hut with Skipskjølen mountain and plateau in the background. Photo: Bjarne Riesto
Heimdals hut. Photo: Randul Valle
Telebu Telegraf hut. Photo: Geir Østereng
A dog on leash. Photo: Randul Valle
Heimdal, also known as ‘Kjølstua’ – open
The National Park maintain this small open hut in partnership with the owner Båtsfjord emergency services. Here you will find 4 beds, 1 hammock, and a wood oven with firewood. There is an outdoor drop-toilet. This was used as hideout for partisans escaping Germans during World War II.
Helheim – open
The National Park maintain this small open hut in partnership with the owner Båtsfjord emergency services.
Here you will find 4 beds, 2 hammocks, and a wood oven with firewood. There is an outdoor drop-toilet.
Telegrafhytta/ Telebu – a historic telegraph workers hut – open
Maintained by the Vardø Hunting and Fishing Association.
In this simple hut you will find 4 beds, 2 hammocks, and a wood oven with firewood. There is an outdoor drop-toilet.
Portgammen, Porthytta – bookings only
Bookes sommerstid via Komagvær jff. Ellers åpen. Here you will find 2 beds, a wood oven with firewood, and a propane cooking plate. Note:
Du finner hyttene markert på kartbrosjyra for nasjonalparken
Ytre Syltevika hut – open
This very simple old hut is maintained by the ‘Friends of Varanger Fjord’ Association in cooperation with the national park comittee.
There are 3-4 beds and a wood oven (fired with driftwood). There is an outdoor drop-toilet. The hut lies within the Nature Reserve area on the Barents Sea coastline amidst spectacular geology. In World War II, partisans used the hut as a base whilst undertaking ship convoy surveillance operations.
Other shelters with access:
Indre Syltevika – Bruvoldhuset – bookings only This shelter is maintained by the Varanger Museum Association and leased by the Norwegian Tourist Association (DNT, Varanger area). It is a rather special building due to its stone wall construction. This is also a dwelling with an exciting World War II history within the walls.
The cottage is in Persfjorden – Syltefjorden Landscape Protected Area at the mouth of where the Syltefjord meets the Barents Sea. It must be pre-booked via the Tourist Association, although there is no Tourist Association sign on the building itself.
Huhtircohkkat – Stormheim – timber shelter
This is a shelter built in recent times to replace the turf shelter historically used by reindeer herders that had been previously at this site. It is a very simple open hut with a wood oven but no toilet. It is a useful emergency winter shelter which has no doubt helped those in need during Arctic winter storms.
Ytre Syltevika hut. Photo: Geir Østereng
Syltefjorddalen. Photo: Randul Valle
Hiking in Indre Syltevik. Photo: Eilert Sundt